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Ice Ratings
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Ice ratings can be nebulous, because the medium constantly changes. Because of these changing conditions, every ascent could be called a first ascent.
When a waterfall first freezes each season, the ice is thin and the climbing desperate. As the ice thickens, it becomes easier to climb and protect. In early morning it's probably cold and brittle, though it might turn to perfect plastic ice by mid-morning, and slush by afternoon. If it's a popular route, it'll get pock-marked so it becomes like a pegboard.
Other factors change a route from year to year, like amount of runoff, prevailing temperatures, and wind. Far more important than a rating in a guidebook is the climb's appearance, the condition of the ice, the temperature, and the climbers.
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Technical Ratings
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The ice rating system in North America has three categories:
WI for water ice, AI for alpine ice, and M for mixed.
Ice grades currently go from 1 to 7.
These numbers apply to WaterIce (WI), AlpineIce (AI), or Mixed (M) terrain and describe the hardest pitch on the route. The range of difficulty within each rating is broad. In general, the technical difficulty of a climb is based on the usual conditions encountered. Since the technical difficulty of a climb depends directly from the quality of the ice, be aware that conditions outside the average will affect the rating
1 Walking up with crampons. No tools required.
2 Only one tool is needed.
A pitch of 60º-70º ice, reasonably consistent, with few short steep steps. Good protection and belays.
3 is a good grade for a beginner to toprope.
Sustained 70º-80º ice, usually thick and solid. May contain short, steep sections, but will have good resting places and offer good protection and belays.
4 approaches vertical
Sustained 75º-85º ice, separated by good belays, or a less steep pitch with significative vertical sections. Generally good quality ice, offering satisfactory protection. ice
5 has extended sections of vertical
A noticeably more strenuous pitch of good but steep (85º-90º) ice.
6 is steep and technical
The ice may not be of top quality and protection may be poor. A high level of skill and strength is required.ean marginal protection, so as difficulty increases, so does the danger.
7 is steep, technical, and often dangerous.
Marginal pick placements usually make this dangerous. A very steep, possibly overhanging, strenuous pitch with few resting places.
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Grade Rating
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I A short climb with a short approach and easy descent. Time required is an hour, or two.
II A 1 or 2 pitch climb with a short approach and easy descent by rappeling, or downclimbing. Time required is a few hours.
III A multi-pitch route at a low elevation which may take several hours, or a route with a long approach that requires good winter travel skills, or a route subject to occasional winter hazards. The descent is often by rappeling. Time required is half a day.
IV A multi-pitch route at higher elevations, or a remote route which requires mountaineering and winter travel skills. May be subject to objective hazards (i.e. avalanche, or rockfall). The descent may be difficult, and involve rappeling. Time required is a most of a day.
V A long climb on a high mountain face that requires significant competence as well as commitment. The climb is subject to objective hazards in addition to bad weather. The approach and descent may be long and difficult. Time required is a long day, or two.
VI A long, multi-pitch route on a high alpine face. The climb may include winter alpine climbing logistical problems in addition to severe objective hazards ( i.e. avalanche, falling seracs, high elevation and remoteness). Time required is many days.
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Quality Rating
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no-star Might be worthwhile if you're in the area.
* A good climb. A must-do for the local area.
** A very good climb. A must-do for the regional area.
*** An exceptional climb. A must-do for the Intermountain area.
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